{"id":15458,"date":"2026-07-28T09:43:39","date_gmt":"2026-07-28T09:43:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/glabridin.net\/?p=15458"},"modified":"2026-07-28T09:45:39","modified_gmt":"2026-07-28T09:45:39","slug":"what-is-stearyl-glycyrrhetinate-technical-brief-anti-inflammatory-data-and-formulating-oil-soluble-licorice-derivatives","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/glabridin.net\/de\/what-is-stearyl-glycyrrhetinate-technical-brief-anti-inflammatory-data-and-formulating-oil-soluble-licorice-derivatives\/","title":{"rendered":"Was ist Stearyl Glycyrrhetinat? Technischer \u00dcberblick, entz\u00fcndungshemmende Daten und Formulierung von \u00f6ll\u00f6slichen S\u00fc\u00dfholzwurzel-Derivaten"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n\n

\n Stearylglycyrrhetinat<\/a><\/strong> ist der lipophile Ester, der aus 18\u03b2-Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure und Stearylalkohol gewonnen wird. W\u00e4hrend wasserl\u00f6sliche S\u00fc\u00dfholzwurzelextrakte wie Kaliumglycyrrhizat w\u00e4ssrige Seren dominieren, haben sie Schwierigkeiten, das hydrophobe Stratum Corneum zu durchdringen. Die Veresterung von Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure mit einer C18-Fetts\u00e4ure-Kette l\u00f6st diese Einschr\u00e4nkung. Das Ergebnis ist ein lipidkompatibler Wirkstoff, der f\u00fcr wasserfreie Systeme, Emulsionen und Formulierungen zur Reparatur der Lipidbarriere entwickelt wurde.\n <\/p>\n\n

\n\n

\n Chemisches Profil und Molekulare Struktur\n <\/h2>\n\n
    \n
  • INCI-Name:<\/strong> Stearylglycyrrhetinat<\/li>\n
  • CAS-Nummer:<\/strong> 13832-70-7<\/span><\/li>\n
  • EINECS\/ELINCS-Nummer:<\/strong> 419-580-5<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Summenformel:<\/strong> C48H82O4<\/li>\n
  • Molekulargewicht:<\/strong> 723,16 g\/mol<\/li>\n
  • Chemische Struktur:<\/strong> 18\u03b2-Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure-30-stearylester<\/li>\n <\/ul>\n\n
    \n CH3 CH3
    \n | |
    \n [ Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure-Kern ] \u2014 C(=O)\u2014O\u2014(CH2)17\u2014CH3
    \n |
    \n O=C\n <\/div>\n\n

    \n Nat\u00fcrliche 18\u03b2-Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure enth\u00e4lt eine Carbons\u00e4uregruppe an Position C-30. Die Veresterung an C-30 mit Octadecanol (Stearylalkohol) erh\u00f6ht die Lipophilie (Log P = 6,2<\/span>). Diese Ver\u00e4nderung erleichtert die Passage durch die interzellul\u00e4ren epidermalen Lipide. Nach dem Eindringen in das Stratum Corneum spalten endogene Esterasen allm\u00e4hlich die Esterbindung und setzen freie Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure f\u00fcr eine anhaltende biologische Aktivit\u00e4t frei.\n <\/p>\n\n

    \n Standard-Analysezertifikat (COA) Spezifikationen\n <\/h2>\n\n

    Die folgende Tabelle beschreibt die Qualit\u00e4tskontrollkriterien f\u00fcr industrielle Rohstoffe f\u00fcr die Kosmetikherstellung:<\/p>\n\n

    \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n
    Pr\u00fcfgegenstand<\/th>\n Spezifikationsstandard<\/th>\n Typisches Chargenergebnis<\/th>\n Testmethode<\/th>\n <\/tr>\n <\/thead>\n
    Aussehen<\/td>\n Wei\u00dfes bis cremefarbenes kristallines Pulver<\/td>\n Wei\u00dfes feines Pulver<\/td>\n Visual inspection<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Geruch<\/td>\n Charakteristischer schwacher Geruch<\/td>\n Konform<\/td>\n Geruchlich<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Reinheit (Gehaltsbestimmung mittels HPLC)<\/td>\n \u2265 98,0 %<\/td>\n 98.6%<\/td>\n HPLC (C18-S\u00e4ule, UV 254 nm)<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Schmelzpunkt<\/td>\n 70,0 \u00b0C \u2013 77,0 \u00b0C<\/td>\n 73,5 \u00b0C \u2013 75,0 \u00b0C<\/td>\n Kapillarschmelzpunkt-Apparat<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Trocknungsverlust<\/td>\n \u2264 1,0 %<\/td>\n 0,3 %<\/td>\n 105 \u00b0C, 2 Stunden<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    R\u00fcckst\u00e4nde bei der Verbrennung<\/td>\n \u2264 0,2 %<\/td>\n 0,08 %<\/td>\n Gl\u00fchen bei 600 \u00b0C<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Schwermetalle (als Blei)<\/td>\n \u2264 10 ppm<\/td>\n < 5 ppm<\/td>\n ICP-MS<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Arsen (As)<\/td>\n \u2264 2 ppm<\/td>\n < 1 ppm<\/td>\n AAS<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Mikrobiologische Pr\u00fcfung<\/td>\n Gesamtkeimzahl < 100 KBE\/g<\/td>\n < 10 CFU\/g<\/td>\n ISO 21149 \/ ISO 16212<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n <\/tbody>\n <\/table>\n <\/div>\n\n

    \n L\u00f6slichkeitsprofil & L\u00f6sungsmittelkompatibilit\u00e4t\n <\/h2>\n\n

    \n Im Gegensatz zu Salzformen der Glycyrrhizins\u00e4ure ist Stearylglycyrrhetinat praktisch unl\u00f6slich in Wasser (9 \u03bcg\/L bei 20 \u00b0C<\/span>). Es erfordert gel\u00f6ste Lipidtr\u00e4ger oder warme organische L\u00f6sungsmittel.\n <\/p>\n\n

    \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n
    L\u00f6sungsmittel \/ Lipidphase<\/th>\n L\u00f6slichkeit bei 25 \u00b0C<\/th>\n L\u00f6slichkeit bei 75 \u00b0C<\/th>\n Formulierungshinweis<\/th>\n <\/tr>\n <\/thead>\n
    Wasser<\/td>\n Insoluble<\/td>\n Insoluble<\/td>\n Nicht geeignet f\u00fcr die direkte w\u00e4ssrige Phase<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Ethanol (95 %)<\/td>\n Leicht l\u00f6slich<\/td>\n L\u00f6slich (~2,5 %)<\/td>\n F\u00e4llt bei schneller Abk\u00fchlung im reinen Zustand aus<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Capryl-\/Caprins\u00e4uretriglycerid (MCT)<\/td>\n ~0,8 % w\/w<\/td>\n > 5,0 % w\/w<\/td>\n Idealer Tr\u00e4ger\u00f6l f\u00fcr Vordissolution<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Squalane<\/td>\n ~0,5 % w\/w<\/td>\n > 4,0 % w\/w<\/td>\n Hervorragende Lipidbasis f\u00fcr Gesichts\u00f6le<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Mineral\u00f6l \/ Isohexadecan<\/td>\n ~0,4 % w\/w<\/td>\n ~3,5 % w\/w<\/td>\n Gute Kompatibilit\u00e4t in Kohlenwasserstoffsystemen<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
    Jojoba\u00f6l \/ Pflanzen\u00f6le<\/td>\n ~0,3 % w\/w<\/td>\n > 3,0 % w\/w<\/td>\n Erfordert Erhitzen \u00fcber 75 \u00b0C zum Aufl\u00f6sen<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n <\/tbody>\n <\/table>\n <\/div>\n\n

    \n Biologische Mechanismen & In-vitro-Leistungsdaten\n <\/h2>\n\n

    \n Stearylglycyrrhetinat moduliert Entz\u00fcndungskaskaden haupts\u00e4chlich durch Hemmung der 11\u03b2-Hydroxysteroid-Dehydrogenase Typ 1 (11\u03b2-HSD1) und nachgeschalteter Arachidons\u00e4urewege.\n <\/p>\n\n

    Hemmung pro-inflammatorischer Mediatoren<\/h3>\n

    \n Entz\u00fcndungsstressoren (UV-Strahlung, chemische Reizstoffe, Tensid-St\u00f6rung) aktivieren Phospholipase A2. Dieses Enzym setzt Arachidons\u00e4ure frei, die \u00fcber Cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) in Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) umgewandelt wird.\n <\/p>\n\n

    \n

    In HaCaT-Zellkultur-Assays (stimuliert mit LPS 1 \u03bcg\/mL):<\/p>\n

      \n
    • PGE2-Unterdr\u00fcckung:<\/strong> IC50-Wert von 12,4 \u03bcM<\/span> (vs. 28,6 \u03bcM f\u00fcr Kaliumglycyrrhizat).<\/li>\n
    • Interleukin-6 (IL-6):<\/strong> Reduziert die IL-6-Sekretion um 54,2 %<\/span> bei 20 \u03bcM.<\/li>\n
    • TNF-\u03b1:<\/strong> Unterdr\u00fcckt die Expression um 41,8 %<\/span> bei 20 \u03bcM.<\/li>\n <\/ul>\n <\/div>\n\n

      Antimikrobielle Benchmarks (MIC-Werte)<\/h3>\n

      Breitbandige antimikrobielle Aktivit\u00e4t hilft, die Mikrobiota von zu Akne neigender und gesch\u00e4digter Haut zu stabilisieren. Standard-Broth-Mikrodilutionstests ergeben die folgenden minimalen Hemmkonzentrationen (MIC):<\/p>\n

        \n
      • Cutibacterium acnes (ATCC 6919):<\/strong> MIC = 62,5 \u03bcg\/mL<\/span><\/li>\n
      • Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC 6538):<\/strong> MIC = 125 \u03bcg\/mL<\/span><\/li>\n
      • Staphylococcus epidermidis (ATCC 12228):<\/strong> MIC = 250 \u03bcg\/mL<\/span><\/li>\n <\/ul>\n\n

        In-vivo-Studie zur Erythemreduktion<\/h3>\n

        \n Ein randomisierter Split-Face-Kliniktest ma\u00df die Erythemreduktion nach einer Reizung mit Natriumlaurylsulfat (SLS, 2 %) als Patch. Zwanzig Probanden trugen zweimal t\u00e4glich eine Formulierung mit 0,2 % Stearylglycyrrhetinat im Vergleich zu einem Placebo-Vehikel auf.\n <\/p>\n \n

        \n
          \n
        • Tag 3:<\/strong> Die Hautr\u00f6tung nahm um 31,4 %<\/strong> im Vergleich zum Ausgangswert ab (gemessen mittels Spektralphotometer a*-Wert).<\/li>\n
        • Tag 7:<\/strong> Die R\u00f6tung nahm um 68,9 %<\/strong>ab, wobei der transepidermale Wasserverlust (TEWL) eine Erholung von 42 % schneller<\/strong> als in der Placebo-Gruppe waren.<\/li>\n <\/ul>\n <\/div>\n\n

          \n Formulierung mit Stearylglycyrrhetinat\n <\/h2>\n\n

          \n Warum Stearylglycyrrhetinat gegen\u00fcber traditionellen S\u00fc\u00dfholzs\u00e4uren w\u00e4hlen? Hohe Konzentrationen ionischer Salze wie Kaliumglycyrrhizat k\u00f6nnen Emulsionssysteme destabilisieren oder polymere Verdickungsmittel (wie Carbomer oder Acrylate\/C10-30 Alkylacrylat-Crosspolymer) brechen. Stearylglycyrrhetinat ist nichtionisch und lipophil, wodurch es f\u00fcr die Emulsionsviskosit\u00e4t v\u00f6llig neutral ist.\n <\/p>\n\n

          Phasenverarbeitung und Erhitzungsanforderungen<\/h3>\n
            \n
          1. Stearylglycyrrhetinat direkt zur polaren oder mittelpolaren \u00d6lphase (MCT, C12-15 Alkylbenzoat oder Squalen) geben.<\/li>\n
          2. Die \u00d6lphase unter moderatem R\u00fchren auf 75 \u00b0C \u2013 80 \u00b0C<\/strong> erhitzen, bis das Pulver sich vollst\u00e4ndig zu einer klaren Fl\u00fcssigkeit aufgel\u00f6st hat.<\/li>\n
          3. Emulgierung mit der Wasserphase bei gleicher Temperatur durchf\u00fchren.<\/li>\n
          4. Bei schneller Abk\u00fchlung sicherstellen, dass die \u00d6lphase gen\u00fcgend solubilisierende Ester enth\u00e4lt, um eine Rekristallisation unter 45 \u00b0C zu verhindern.<\/li>\n <\/ol>\n\n

            Empfohlene Dosierungsmatrix<\/h3>\n
            \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n
            Anwendungstyp<\/th>\n Empfohlene Nutzungsstufe<\/th>\n Hauptfunktion<\/th>\n <\/tr>\n <\/thead>\n
            Barriere-Reparatur-Cremes & Balsame<\/td>\n 0,1 % \u2013 0,5 %<\/td>\n Beruhigend, gegen R\u00f6tungen, Lipidauff\u00fcllung<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
            Lippenbalsame & Lippenstifte<\/td>\n 0,2 % \u2013 1,0 %<\/td>\n Reparatur rissiger Lippen, entz\u00fcndungshemmende Unterst\u00fctzung<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
            Sonnenschutz & After-Sun-Pflege<\/td>\n 0,1 % \u2013 0,3 %<\/td>\n Ausgleich von UV-induzierten Erythemen<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
            Wasserfreie Seren & Gesichts\u00f6le<\/td>\n 0,05 % \u2013 0,2 %<\/td>\n T\u00e4gliche Beruhigung f\u00fcr empfindliche Haut<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
            Akne & Pickel-Spot-Behandlungen<\/td>\n 0,2 % \u2013 0,5 %<\/td>\n Reduzierung lokalisierter entz\u00fcndlicher Papeln<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n <\/tbody>\n <\/table>\n <\/div>\n\n

            Synergistische Wirkstoffkombinationen<\/h3>\n
              \n
            • Bisabolol (0,2 %) + Stearylglycyrrhetinat (0,1 %):<\/strong> Kombinierte Hemmung sowohl der 5-LOX- als auch der COX-2-Wege.<\/li>\n
            • Ceramid NP (0,1 %) + Stearylglycyrrhetinat (0,2 %):<\/strong> Baut interzellul\u00e4re Lipide wieder auf und reduziert gleichzeitig subklinische Entz\u00fcndungen der Barriere.<\/li>\n
            • Tocopherol (0,5 %) + Stearylglycyrrhetinat (0,1 %):<\/strong> Sch\u00fctzt lipophile Wirkstoffe vor Oxidation und verhindert gleichzeitig die Peroxidation von Squalen auf der Haut.<\/li>\n <\/ul>\n\n

              \n Vergleichende Analyse: Stearylglycyrrhetinat vs. Kaliumglycyrrhizat\n <\/h2>\n\n
              \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n
              Merkmal<\/th>\n Stearylglycyrrhetinat<\/th>\n Dikaliumglycyrrhizat<\/th>\n <\/tr>\n <\/thead>\n
              L\u00f6slichkeit<\/td>\n \u00d6l-l\u00f6slich \/ Lipophil<\/td>\n Wasser-l\u00f6slich \/ Hydrophil<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
              Log P-Wert<\/td>\n 6.2<\/td>\n < -1,5<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
              Ziel der Hautpenetration<\/td>\n Stratum Corneum & Lipidmatrix<\/td>\n W\u00e4ssriger interzellul\u00e4rer Raum der Epidermis<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
              Einfluss auf die Viskosit\u00e4t<\/td>\n Kein Einfluss auf die Emulsionsrheologie<\/td>\n Kann Carbomer \/ Gel-Viskosit\u00e4t bei > 0,5 % senken<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
              Thermische Stabilit\u00e4t<\/td>\n Stabil bis 85 \u00b0C in der \u00d6lphase<\/td>\n Stabil bis 80 \u00b0C in der Wasserphase<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n
              Ideales Produktformat<\/td>\n Lippenstifte, reichhaltige Cremes, \u00d6le, Sonnenschutzmittel<\/td>\n Toner, Gele, Tuchmasken, w\u00e4ssrige Seren<\/td>\n <\/tr>\n <\/tbody>\n <\/table>\n <\/div>\n\n

              \n Regulatorischer Status und Sicherheitsbewertung\n <\/h2>\n\n
                \n
              • US CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review):<\/strong> Als sicher f\u00fcr die Verwendung in kosmetischen Formulierungen bis zu 1.0%<\/span>.<\/li>\n
              • EU SCCS \/ CosIng:<\/strong> Ohne spezifische Einschr\u00e4nkung aufgef\u00fchrt (Ref.-Nr.: 38334); es gelten die \u00fcblichen Grenzwerte f\u00fcr kosmetische Sicherheit.<\/li>\n
              • China NMPA (IECIC):<\/strong> Im Verzeichnis der vorhandenen kosmetischen Inhaltsstoffe in China enthalten.<\/li>\n
              • Japan (Quasi-Wirkstoff):<\/strong> Zugelassen als Wirkstoff f\u00fcr entz\u00fcndungshemmende und beruhigende Angaben innerhalb bestimmter Grenzen (0,1 % \u2013 0,5 %<\/span>).<\/li>\n <\/ul>\n\n

                \n Phototoxizit\u00e4ts- und Sensibilisierungsstudien best\u00e4tigen, dass Stearyl Glycyrrhetinat bei einer Konzentration von 1,0 % kein phototoxisches Potenzial aufweist. Es besteht die Standard-Human-Repeat-Insult-Patch-Tests (HRIPT) ohne beobachtete Reizung.\n <\/p>\n\n

                \n Verpackung, Lagerung und Handhabung\n <\/h2>\n\n
                  \n
                • Verpackung:<\/strong> Die \u00fcbliche industrielle Lieferung erfolgt in Aluminiumfolienbeuteln oder Faserf\u00e4ssern, ausgekleidet mit doppellagigen Polyethylenbeuteln.<\/li>\n
                • Lagerbedingungen:<\/strong> Beh\u00e4lter dicht verschlossen an einem k\u00fchlen, trockenen und gut bel\u00fcfteten Ort (15 \u00b0C \u2013 25 \u00b0C) aufbewahren. Vor direkter Sonneneinstrahlung und Feuchtigkeit sch\u00fctzen.<\/li>\n
                • Haltbarkeit:<\/strong> 24 Monate ab Herstellungsdatum bei Lagerung in unge\u00f6ffneten Originalbeh\u00e4ltern.<\/li>\n
                • Musteranfragen:<\/strong> Produktionsmuster in reiner Qualit\u00e4t sind auf Anfrage f\u00fcr Forschungs- und F&E-Formulierungsversuche erh\u00e4ltlich.<\/li>\n <\/ul>\n\n
                  \n\n

                  \n Literatur & wissenschaftliche Referenzen\n <\/h2>\n\n
                    \n
                  1. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Abschlussbericht zur Sicherheitsbewertung von Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure, ihren Salzen und Estern<\/em>International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 79\u2013112.<\/li>\n
                  2. Shibata, S. (2000). Eine \u00dcberpr\u00fcfung der entz\u00fcndungshemmenden Wirkungen von S\u00fc\u00dfholz und seinen Wirkstoffen<\/em>Journal of the Pharmaceutical Society of Japan, 120(10), 849\u2013862.<\/li>\n
                  3. Finney, R. S. H., & Somers, G. F. (1958). Die entz\u00fcndungshemmende Aktivit\u00e4t von Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure und ihren Derivaten<\/em>Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, 10(1), 613\u2013620.<\/li>\n
                  4. Yokota, T., Nishio, H., Kubota, Y., & Mizoguchi, M. (1998). Die hemmende Wirkung von S\u00fc\u00dfholzextrakt auf Melanogenese und Entz\u00fcndung<\/em>Pigment Cell Research, 11(6), 355\u2013361.<\/li>\n
                  5. Inagaki, N., et al. (2006). Hemmende Wirkungen von 18\u03b2-Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure-Derivaten auf Sofort- und Sp\u00e4ttyp-\u00dcberempfindlichkeitsreaktionen<\/em>Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 29(8), 1734\u20131739.<\/li>\n <\/ol>\n\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

                    Stearyl Glycyrrhetinat ist der lipophile Ester, der aus 18\u03b2-Glycyrrhetins\u00e4ure und Stearylalkohol gewonnen wird. W\u00e4hrend wasserl\u00f6sliche S\u00fc\u00dfholzwurzelextrakte wie Dikaliumglycyrrhizat w\u00e4ssrige Seren dominieren, haben sie Schwierigkeiten\u2026<\/p>","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":5752,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[60],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15458","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-product-news"],"yoast_head":"\nWhat Is Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate? Technical Brief, Anti-Inflammatory Data, and Formulating Oil-Soluble Licorice Derivatives - Huatai Bio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/glabridin.net\/de\/what-is-stearyl-glycyrrhetinate-technical-brief-anti-inflammatory-data-and-formulating-oil-soluble-licorice-derivatives\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"What Is Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate? Technical Brief, Anti-Inflammatory Data, and Formulating Oil-Soluble Licorice Derivatives\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is the lipophilic ester derived from 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid and stearyl alcohol. 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